Monday, March 30, 2009

travel time!

it is almost time to come home. i am ready to travel and do new things. chiang mai has been great and we have made some really cool friends. i will miss many things about thailand, but i think i am ready. here is the agenda:
today: move out in one hour, train to BKK in 4 hours.
tomorrow: leave bags at our friend's house in BKK, fly to hanoi.
next while: do lots of amazing things in vietnam, then go to cambodia for a few days to see a giant amazing temple.
april 18: fly from BKK to tokyo to chicago to cleveland! then eat salmon at great lakes brewery. then go to bed in erie, pa.
after that: well, no idea really. find a job in boston.

i will miss this:

see you soon.
xo

Sunday, March 22, 2009

relaxation (and antics) at the floating cabins

last week, luke and i spent 2 days and 2 nights at a place called the floating cottages on a man made lake (they built a dam in a valley) one hour north of town. the lake is in a national park, so it is nice and quiet, unlike many other parts of thailand. there are about 15 different house boat clusters on the lake. some are long, being a series of cabins on bamboo floats, a restaurant or 2, and maybe karaoke. our place was the cabin the furthest out, and therefore the quietest. no karaoke, just reading, swimming, and hammocks. but there were some characters and some antics along the way.


we arrived at the shore and met a man named tom, who with the addition of an eye patch could be a very convincing pirate. he escorted us to our long-tailed boat that was going to take us on the 20 minute ride to the cabins. also in the boat with us was "daisy," our very own thai lady boy, who would be at our service for the weekend!

the ride is beautiful. we are surrounded by mountains and the lake has lots of nooks and crannies, because after all it was a valley before it was filled with water. the cabins are made entirely of bamboo. they are constructed of a series of floats with long, whole bamboo stalks on the bottom, boards on top, and bamboo mats on top of that. there are lots of outside places to sit, including several hammocks! the cabins are 2 separate structures. one is the outdoor kitchen, outdoor living room, and 2 enclosed bedrooms for the care taker and whoever else. we stayed in the other part that had many twin beds and one double bed. all had mosquito nets and half wall bamboo structures in between. there was a bathroom and a sink in the back, but no shower. all of the floats are connected by little wooden bridges. the place is eco-friendly and the water has been tested and is perfectly clean, although we didn't drink it. there is no running water and only a bit of electricity on the caretaker's side. basically it was a lot like camping without the fire pit, but just as cool. even though they are still burning the fields, it was only a little hazy. there was lots of fish jumping to eat bugs, which included bright red dragon flies and huge jungle cicadas.


character number one approaches.
alex, the caretaker, arrives. he is a very tan, older guy from the french speaking part switzerland. one part hippie, one part bad-ass (he was sharpening machetes to cut down more bamboo), he is a pretty nice and chill guy. he tells us that his friend is coming for a week, and is wondering why his boat is not here yet.

character number two arrives, kasse, a masseuse/health professional from holland. also an older, chill guy. he speaks german, amongst other languages, so luke talks to him in german a lot throughout the weekend.

in the quite of the lake, and our swimming/reading/lounging routine that has already begun, we can hear a jet ski approaching. alex informs us that it is kevin, the loud american, a vietnam vet. on the jet ski are characters three through five. first we have kevin, a man who is whole-heartedly still living in the 70's. next we have bubba (or whatever her actual name is), the thai wife of kevin, who is just as loud and blind in one eye. and last, but certainly not least, we have rainbow, the large and colorful macaw parrot, who rides in on the jet ski on the arm of the thai wife! truly a sight to behold. this trio came over a few different times to visit, chatting a lot. we tried to give them the hint several times by reading books and doing quiet things, but it took them quite a long time to realize that we were just chilling. multiple times we heard stories about how the last rambo movie was shot on this very lake, their condo in park city, the new jet ski and what colors they are thinking of painting it, how to tie a bowline, and that we should bbq rainbow for dinner. although we did share our gin and tonics with them, and in return they brought us fresh fish for lunch and some whiskey to share. kevin was convinced that luke and i were "newlyweds," and kept referring to us as that. here is rainbow, wings spread but apparently he does not know how to fly.


we swam about every 10 minutes, ate fish fresh out of the cabin's fish farm that were bbq-ed whole, read a lot, and played cards by candlelight while drinking red wine. not a bad life. the next morning i got my first bee sting ever. i stepped on the bugger out by the bathroom, which resulted in 2 chubby, painful red toes (he got me twice and i had to pull him out of my foot!). but i swam and kayaked it off. after all there was not a lot of walking to be done, mostly lounging and swimming.

the second night there was lots of swirly wind and lightning in the distance. we were pretty convinced it was going to storm (which it never did), so i went back into our room to put everything in the backpacks and tuck it away, since i did not trust the integrity of the bamboo leaf roof. it was dark so all i had was a flashlight. as i was tucking the bags into a corner, i noticed a rather large jungle spider on the floor. it's body was about the size of a nickel or quarter with decent sized legs. i went back out to inform luke that we had a friend, but he did not seem concerned about killing it at the moment. after all, nothing is urgent in thailand. when we finally went to bed, i suggested we search for the spider first, then search the bed and tuck the mosquito net in really well. luke starts searching with the flashlight, and as i am looking the other way, he grabs me by the arm, and says, "you didn't tell me it was that big!" turns out we had 2 jungle spiders, and i had found the baby! this one was the mothership, pretty much the size of a tarantula without the fur. so luke goes out to the tool shelf and i keep an eye on the spider. he comes back and smashed the monster with the back end of a hatchet! we also found the little innocent jungle spider that i had seen before and got that one as well. needless to say, we tucked the mosquito net really well, i did not get up to go to the bathroom in the night, and i had dreams about giant spiders. sorry that i did not get a picture, but it was an emergency situation.

i love swimming.

the next morning we left. on the way home i saw a terrifying sight - a young thai child, maybe 3-5 years old was riding in the front BASKET of a MOTORBIKE! oh amazing thailand, so safe.

................

in other news, we did a cooking class the day after we came back with our friends lucy and natalie. it was delicious and we were stuffed. cooking is fun and i miss it! i will have a kitchen soon!

Thursday, March 12, 2009

outrageous

here is a listing of some of the more outrageous observations and events of the past couple days. i won't go into extensive detail or it might take you hours to read, but you get the picture.

wednesday:
-morning trip to the royal flora. kind of like the disney world of botanical gardens, but with no one there. seriously, there were about 7 cars in the giant amusement park-sized parking lot. there were more people watering flowers than visitors. but it was free and nice to be in a quite place, even if it was a little over groomed.
-last day of teaching my private lesson japanese student, Yu the 5 year old. Present from her mom: toothpaste. yes, a tube of herbal toothpaste from the thai royal projects.
-flat tire#1 on the way home.
-bought a plane ticket to vietnam.

next day:
-trip to chiang dao caves on our motorbike with danny (he was on his own motorbike).
-long, long drive on the motorbike. scary construction zones. stupid dogs in the middle of the road.
-arrive at caves. butt hurts from motorbike.
-most amazing sign in thailand: totlet for lamer = handicapped bathroom.
-girl with incredibly crossed eyes gets us lunch.
-caves were really big and really cool. lady led us through with a gas lantern. big huge cave rooms with dripping stalactites and stalagmites. also TONS of bats! a little bit of creepy crawling in between some of the big rooms.
-met a girl from maine who went to uvm and had an italian friend.
-giant fish in pond.
-danny calls his climbing friend who tells us about a cool wat.
-we are tired, but the wat was really cool and worth walking up about 500 steps. on a hill in the jungle. really quiet. lots of bugs.
-time to ride home. danny goes first and ends up ahead of us.
-flat tire #2 in 2 days. luckily it happened in an area that actually had life and there was a mechanic across the street.
-while they fix the tire, we witness 2 school boys trying to balance 2 large boxes, 2 soccer balls, and the 2 of them on one bicycle.
-man fixes tire. changed tube. insists that we can get home with the same tire even though there is a hole ripped in the rubber. are you sure? yes, can go to chiang mai, he says.
-after pulling out of the place, tire feels wobbly. we plan to check it if it continues to be weird. luke is driving slow.
-not even 5 minutes later the thing goes flat and ends its life with a loud pop. luckily, luke was watching out for mechanics on the way and there is one near us. i keep luke from destroying the bike and/or his helmet.
-on the walk to fix flat tire #3 we see a boy riding a bicycle with a young man on the back seat of the bike. the man on the back is holding a full grown chicken in each arm. of course, of course he is.
-we have 6 mechanics to fix our tire. after a long series of miscommunications in thai, they all realize that we want a new tire at any price and we will not leave without one. man takes tube off and we find out that our last mechanic had used our old tube, cut in half, as a buffer for our shit tire that did not make it.
-very drunk cambodian man with long hair and long beard is hanging out at the mechanic. he wants us to drink his beer with him. we say no. he brings us a chang anyway. luke opens it with his pocket knife and breaks the glass. shows crazy drunk man and asks for a glass. instead we get a new bottle. luke and i proceed to drink a warm chang beer (not the best even when cold) while they fix our tire. drunk man speaks really close to luke's face. asks us things about how long are we here and where are we going and where are we from. tells us he is cambodian. keeps repeating "handsome," beautiful," and "happy" amongst other english words. after each "happy" we must cheers. one of the 6 mechanics comes over to check on the drunk man and translate a bit. all is well so he goes back to supervising. luke and i are in hysterics. good thing the tire popped. it cost us about $15 to meet this crazy dude.
-finally make it home. dinner and shower. i was literally covered in pollution and soot and helmet hair after nearly 4 hours on the bike.
-poker game. luke wins 600 baht, which cancels out our tire debts for the day.